On a July afternoon on a beach near Malaga, the sand is covered with people lying deliberately in the full midday sun, turning at intervals like something on a spit, chasing the deep brown tan that Spanish summer culture prizes. To an American dermatologist, the scene is close to a horror film: hundreds of people …

A family of four checking into a Barcelona hotel for a week in the summer of 2026 can now expect a line on the final bill that did not sting nearly as much a year ago. The city’s tourist tax climbed again this spring, and for a stay in a good hotel the charge can …

An American couple in their early sixties opens a letter from their Fidelity brokerage in their Valencia apartment. The letter says their accounts will be restricted in 60 days and closed in 120 days because Fidelity does not service accounts held by non-US residents. They have $980,000 in those accounts. The closure means liquidating positions …

The oldest building on our street here in Cuenca province grew an air-conditioning unit last summer, a white box drilled into a stone facade that predates the United States, installed by a family that spent twenty years telling every visiting relative that air conditioning gives you a sore throat and a stiff neck. Here is …

On Monday, the French fridge holds the ghost of Sunday. A few slices of roast, the last of a boiled dinner, a heel of bread going stale in the bread bin. In many homes, all of it has a destination: it is about to become tomates farcies, stuffed tomatoes, one of the great thrifty comfort …

For years, my afternoons were a slow, unbroken graze. A handful of almonds at my desk, a biscuit with a cup of coffee, a few crackers while I answered an email, a square of chocolate because it was there. I never sat down to any of it, never really tasted it, and never once thought …

An American retiree living in Spain, with no job and no Spanish pension, can buy full access to the country’s public health system for a flat €157 a month, roughly $170. That fee is the same whether they live on a modest savings account or a comfortable investment portfolio, and once they are in, there …

At six in the morning, before the coffee machines are even warm, a particular kind of guest is already moving. They pad down to the shuttered pool in flip-flops, towels under one arm, and wait. When the gate opens they move fast, draping a towel over the best lounger, then a second, then a third …

Type “ETIAS application” into a search engine today and you will find slick websites, official-looking logos, and a form ready to take your passport number and your card details. Almost every one of them is a trap. As of the middle of 2026, ETIAS does not exist yet. There is no portal, no application, and …

You can order sangria and no one will stop you. But if you want to drink like a Spaniard, skip the tourist jug and ask for the simple things locals actually buy: a chilled tinto de verano, a Sunday vermut, or a small glass of vino joven that often costs about the price of a …

The plates have been cleared for half an hour. The coffee cups are empty, one glass of wine is going warm, and nobody at the table has made any move to leave. In an American restaurant a waiter would have dropped the check by now, twice. Here, in a small place in a Spanish town, …

Anyone who has tried to run an errand in a Spanish town at three in the afternoon has felt the confusion. The pharmacy is shut. The hardware shop is dark. The little grocery has pulled its shutter halfway down, and the street that was busy at noon is empty and quiet. To a newly arrived …