An American arriving in Spain often comes away with a strange first impression, that the people, for all their famous warmth, seem oddly blunt. Conversations feel louder, more direct, and less cushioned than back home. Strong opinions land without warning or apology. Someone interrupts mid-sentence. A request arrives without the soft padding of pleases and …
Most retirement stories are written for couples. Two pensions, two Social Security checks, one shared rent, expenses split down the middle. But a great many people arrive at retirement on their own, through divorce, widowhood, or simply a life lived solo, and for them the familiar advice does not quite fit. This is the story …
An American rents an apartment in Madrid or Rome or Berlin, throws open the window on the first warm evening, and stops short. There is nothing there. No screen, no mesh, no barrier of any kind between the room and the open air, just a window that swings wide onto the street. For a person …
An 84-year-old man in a hill town in Tuscany walks to the cafe at 7:30am. He has done this approximately 18,000 times across his adult life. The cafe is 600 meters from his house. He orders his espresso at the bar, exchanges greetings with the three other regulars who arrive within the same 20-minute window, …
There is a small object that sits beside nearly every toilet in Europe, in homes, in cafés, in the very humblest bar and the very grandest apartment alike, that many American visitors notice, register as slightly odd, and then completely fail to understand. It is the toilet brush. In the United States, a toilet brush …
Tourists don’t order “bad” food in Italy. They order tourist food. That’s the difference. The dish might taste fine. It might even be great in a specific place. But in many cities, the most common tourist orders are basically a sign that you’re eating in a restaurant designed for you, not for Italians who live …
Spend a summer afternoon anywhere in Greece and you will notice that almost everyone is holding the same thing. Not a phone, not a book, but a tall, frosted glass of iced coffee, sweating gently in the heat, crowned with a layer of foam. Greeks do not merely drink cold coffee in summer, they live …
Among all the factors that researchers have connected to a longer, healthier life, one keeps surfacing that has nothing to do with diet, exercise, or medicine. It is the simple matter of having a reason to get out of bed in the morning, a sense of purpose. Study after study, across continents and cultures, has …
Watch two Italians in full conversational flight and you might reach for your phone to call for help. Voices rise, hands fly through the air, both people talk at once, faces flushing with feeling, chairs pushed back, and the whole thing looks, to an American, like a quarrel about to come to blows. Then, just …
They had planned the move together. The two of them had spent years imagining a later life somewhere warm and bright by the sea, poring over maps, saving carefully, picturing the mornings they would share. And then, before the plan could become real, her husband died, and she found herself at sixty-four holding a dream …
Open almost any guide to retirement and you will notice something quietly frustrating if you happen to be on your own. The advice assumes a partner. It talks about survivor benefits and joint accounts, about who will care for whom. Retirement planning, as an entire genre, is written by and for couples, which leaves the …
Stand in front of the ham section of any decent Spanish shop and you are looking at one of the widest price ranges in the whole food world. Two legs of cured ham can sit side by side, looking almost identical to an untrained eye, and one might cost eight euros a kilo while the …