You board in one city as the light goes, have a drink in the lounge car while the suburbs slide past, and climb into a bunk. You wake the next morning pulling into a different country, wash your face, and step off the train into the center of a new city with the whole day …
An American retiree settles in Spain, walks into a local bank to open a simple checking account, and is politely turned away. Not because of her finances, her paperwork, or anything she has done, but because of her passport. She is an American, and for a growing number of European banks, that alone is reason …
There is a line in the Spanish calendar that most people moving to the country never notice until it has already cost them money. Spend more than 183 days in Spain during a single calendar year and you become a Spanish tax resident, and a Spanish tax resident owes Spanish tax on their worldwide income, …
An American turns sixty-five, or moves to Europe already past it, and runs headlong into a decision that Medicare presents badly and almost nobody prepares them for. Should they keep paying for Medicare Part B, at more than two hundred dollars a month, for coverage that will not work where they now live? Or should …
Walk through Paris, Rome, or Madrid in the middle of August and you will notice something strange: half the city seems to have gone home. Neighbourhood restaurants have handwritten signs in the window reading closed until September. Bakeries are shuttered, the corner shop is dark, and the streets where locals live feel oddly hollow. Europe, …
Stand near the sunscreen wall of any Spanish farmacia in July and you can watch the phenomenon in person. The wall itself is impressive, a floor-to-ceiling display of ISDIN, La Roche-Posay, Avène, and Vichy that gets prime real estate in even the smallest village pharmacy. The phenomenon is the American tourists in front of it, …
The waiter in Barcelona brings the card machine, and as an American taps their card, the screen offers a choice: pay in euros, or pay in US dollars. Relieved to see something familiar, the tourist presses dollars. The transaction goes through, the amount shown looks reasonable, and they hand back the machine feeling savvy. They …
At two in the afternoon on a July day in Córdoba, the old city looks abandoned. The narrow lanes of the Judería are empty, shutters are pulled down over shop windows, and the only sound is a fountain somewhere behind a wall. The heat comes up off the stone paving in a way you can …
On a July afternoon on a beach near Malaga, the sand is covered with people lying deliberately in the full midday sun, turning at intervals like something on a spit, chasing the deep brown tan that Spanish summer culture prizes. To an American dermatologist, the scene is close to a horror film: hundreds of people …
An American retiree living in Spain, with no job and no Spanish pension, can buy full access to the country’s public health system for a flat €157 a month, roughly $170. That fee is the same whether they live on a modest savings account or a comfortable investment portfolio, and once they are in, there …
At six in the morning, before the coffee machines are even warm, a particular kind of guest is already moving. They pad down to the shuttered pool in flip-flops, towels under one arm, and wait. When the gate opens they move fast, draping a towel over the best lounger, then a second, then a third …
Type “ETIAS application” into a search engine today and you will find slick websites, official-looking logos, and a form ready to take your passport number and your card details. Almost every one of them is a trap. As of the middle of 2026, ETIAS does not exist yet. There is no portal, no application, and …