There is a small, dark, almost black bean grown in the Basque town of Tolosa that the people of that region hold in a reverence bordering on the religious, and once you have tasted it slow-cooked into a deep, glossy stew, you understand exactly why. The Basques do not merely eat these beans, they venerate …
Here is a question that quietly separates people who love Italian food from people who truly understand it. When you make a pizza, which mozzarella do you reach for, the luxurious, tangy mozzarella di bufala, or the humbler fior di latte? Most people, if they know the difference at all, assume that the more expensive, …
If you love empanadas, you might already know that there are different versions of them. Although all are delicious, it’s really good to know the differences between each, as the empanada you’re going for will definitely need different ingredients and cooking styles, ultimately resulting in the unique empanada of your choice of place of origin. …
If you grew up anywhere in Spain, natillas is the taste of childhood in a small bowl. It is the soft, pale-yellow custard that always appeared on kitchen tables after a long lunch, a dusting of cinnamon on top and a single round biscuit floating like a raft. It is not a fancy dessert, and …
Ciabatta looks like it has been made in Italian villages for a thousand years. The rough, floury, slipper-shaped loaf with its open, holey crumb has the air of something ancient and rustic, a peasant bread handed down through generations. It is one of the most convincing pieces of edible theater in the world, because ciabatta …
Many worldwide love fried chicken, but it’s made differently from place to place. In the Southern United States, fried chicken is a classic dish, often served at family meals and special gatherings. It features a crispy, golden coating with juicy, tender meat inside. The seasoning, a mix of spices like paprika and garlic powder, adds …
There are dishes you cook to feed people, and there are dishes you cook to travel through time, and pollo en pepitoria is firmly the second kind. The first time I made it in my kitchen here in Spain, I understood why it has survived for centuries, because the smell alone, saffron and toasted almonds …
Italian cuisine is known for its simplicity, and nothing embodies this better than pomarola, Tuscany’s beloved tomato sauce. Unlike heavy, long-simmered ragùs, pomarola is fresh, light, and versatile, made with ripe summer tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, onion, and fragrant herbs. This sauce is the backbone of countless Tuscan dishes, from pasta and rice to grilled …
There is something strange about marmitako. It is a hot, hearty stew, the kind of thing you would expect to eat by a fire in the depths of winter, yet its season is high summer, and its birthplace was not a kitchen at all but the pitching deck of a fishing boat in the Bay …
Walk into a trattoria in Rome, or Florence, or any small town in between, and ask for garlic bread. You will get a polite, puzzled look. The soft, buttery, garlic-drenched loaf that arrives alongside spaghetti in American restaurants does not exist in Italy, has never existed in Italy, and would strike most Italians as a …
There are recipes people hand you like paperwork. Measurements. Temperatures. Exact times. No mystery. Southern biscuits are not that. Biscuits are the kind of food where a grandmother can “teach” you for three hours and still never actually give you the recipe. Not because she’s trying to be difficult. Because the recipe isn’t the point. …
How to build a real desayuno that tastes like Spain and keeps you steady until the late lunch hour Stand at a bar in Seville at 9 in the morning and watch the routine. A short coffee arrives, a slice of toast topped with grated tomato and olive oil, maybe a small wedge of tortilla …