For a growing number of American retirees, the reason for leaving is not the weather or the food or the romance of Europe. It is the healthcare. After a working life spent fearing medical bills, and facing retirement with Medicare premiums, supplement plans, deductibles and the ever-present dread of a catastrophic diagnosis, many older Americans …
You have walked all morning through the Roman heat, and the Spanish Steps rise in front of you, a hundred and thirty-odd travertine steps sweeping up toward a church, sun-warmed and inviting. So you do the natural thing and sit down to rest. Within moments a police officer with a whistle is heading your way, …
A Spanish family meal does not end when the food does. The plates are cleared, or half cleared, and everyone stays. The talk keeps going, coffee appears, maybe a small glass of something, and an hour later the same people are still at the same table, in no hurry to be anywhere else. A lunch …
A woman in her early sixties stands at her apartment door in Lucca. She has been here for 26 months. She is going home to Pittsburgh. She is not unusual. Most American women over 58 who move to Italy do this. The return is rarely about Italy. It is about specific structural factors that the …
On a side street off a Roman piazza, a curved iron spout pours a steady arc of cold water into a drain, and has been doing so, day and night, for longer than anyone walking past has been alive. It never shuts off. The water is clean, it is free, and it is the same …
The barista has read you before you reach the end of the sentence. Not from your accent, though that helps, and not from your clothes. From the order itself, which in Italy carries more about who you are than most people crossing the counter realize they are handing over. Stand at the banco of a …
The pasta was twelve euros. The wine was reasonable. The meal was lovely. Then the bill arrives, and there at the bottom sits a line that was not on any dish: coperto, two euros per person, roughly $2.20 each. To an American, freshly seated in their first Italian trattoria, it looks exactly like the thing …
Say the word pesto and most people picture one thing: the bright green Genoese sauce of basil, pine nuts, and Parmesan from the north of Italy. But travel to the far western tip of Sicily, to the port city of Trapani, and you will find a different pesto entirely. It is red, not green. It …
An American walks into a bar in Rome, orders an espresso, and glances at the price list. The same coffee appears twice, at two different prices. One column says something like €1.20, roughly $1.30. Another says €3.50, about $3.80. Same cup, same beans, nearly triple the price. It looks like a mistake, or a trick. …
Tucked along the Cilento coast in southern Italy, about 85 miles south of Naples, sits a small fishing village called Acciaroli. It has cobblestone streets, stone houses, a working harbour, and one very unusual statistic: a strikingly high share of its residents live past 100. In the study that made it famous, more than one …
An office worker in Bologna at 12:45pm closes his laptop, walks to a small trattoria three minutes from his building, and sits down at a table. He orders the menu of the day. He eats his lunch sitting in a chair at a table with cutlery, conversation with the waiter and other regulars, and approximately …
And What It Reveals About Confidence, Simplicity, and How Italians Travel With Less but Live More There’s a moment in every airport, train station, or hotel lobby when the difference becomes obvious. The Americans: overstuffed duffels, backpacks bursting at the seams, roller bags with zip-on compartments and “just-in-case” gadgets peeking out of every pocket. The …